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The history of precious metal hallmarks

French regulations require precious metal works to be hallmarked to guarantee their title and authenticity. In fact, for over 200 years, it has been mandatory to mark jewelry with two separate hallmarks: that of the master jeweler who made the jewelry, and that of the title which determines the percentage of precious metal contained in the piece.

Everything you need to know about hallmarks on antique jewelry!

Antique jewelry, like modern jewelry, is provided with hallmarks. This is a valuable indicator that allows you to distinguish the real from the fake. However, it happens that with friction, these hallmarks lose their readability over time. But second-hand jewelry made in France is all well hallmarked with two distinct marks that allow them to be certified. I will explain to you how to recognize these signs!

The title punch

The title hallmark has been a mandatory hallmark for several centuries. It guarantees the title of a work, that is to say, specifies the percentage of precious metal contained in the alloy.

Hallmarks are common to pieces of jewelry, goldsmithing and watchmaking. If an antique piece of jewelry has seen its hallmark disappear with the wear of time or has been imported, then the customs service or the warranty office can hallmark it to regularize the situation. The objective is to rigorously control the trade in precious metals.

Thus, the title hallmark is mandatory for all gold and platinum jewelry weighing more than 3 grams, and all silver jewelry weighing more than 30 grams, to guarantee the purity of the metal. The legal title hallmark is of more or less significant size, and is suitable for small and large works. In jewelry, hallmarks are generally affixed in discreet places such as the underside of a ring, the hook of an earring, the bail of a pendant, the mesh or clasp of a necklace or bracelet.

Here are the main hallmarks for guaranteeing precious metals:

- Gold jewelry: the seahorse for 999% pure pieces, the eagle's head for the first title (18k gold), the scallop shell for 14 carat jewelry, and the clover for 9 carat.

- Platinum jewelry: dog head (850%)

- Silver and vermeil jewelry: the old man, the rooster, the boar's head and the head of Minerva

The master jeweler's hallmark

The second hallmark that we will find on an antique jewel is that of the master jeweler. Indeed, the person who creates an ornament puts his own hallmark on it. It is very concretely a signature of its creation. However, not all jewels bear them. These hallmarks can also have faded over time or have disappeared with a change in size.

But a goldsmith's or jeweler's hallmark is very interesting because it provides information on the origin of the piece. Thanks to it, decades or even centuries later, we can trace the history of a piece of jewelry and find its creator. In practice, however, not all master's hallmarks are listed. This will make it easier to recognize the hallmarks of the great goldsmiths of French jewelry.

In practice, a master's hallmark is recognized by its generally horizontal diamond shape, it contains two letters that correspond to the jeweler's initials. In addition, a personal symbol can be added to this hallmark and give it all its originality.

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